Angora
Rabbit down with a distinctive halo.
Reviewed 2026-09-22. Evidence level: verified. Open the interactive profile and route map.
Key figures
- Species
- Oryctolagus cuniculus, Angora breeds
- Long-hair variant
- homozygous Fgf5 missense substitution in all tested Angoras
- Comfort factor, French Angora (OFDA)
- mean 97.5%, range 93.3 to 99.8%
- Medullated fibers (OFDA estimate)
- about 0.1 to 7.3%
- Follicle cycle after plucking (Wan strain)
- telogen in week 1, anagen from week 4 to week 24
Approximate values under the stated conditions.
Overview
Fine hair from Angora rabbits, often blended with other fibers for practical yarns.
Feel and behavior
Very fluffy, light and warm; can shed during wear.
Where you find it
Halo-effect knitwear, accessories and blended yarns.
Source and geography
Angora is the hair of Angora breeds of the domestic rabbit, Oryctolagus cuniculus, kept for wool rather than meat or pelts. Studied lines include French Angoras and Chinese strains such as Zhexi and Wan, which dominate recent genetic research. The long coat has an identified genetic component: whole-genome resequencing found a missense substitution in the fibroblast growth factor 5 gene (Fgf5) homozygous in all Angora rabbits tested, which impairs FGF5 binding to its receptor FGFR1 and is associated with the long-hair trait. Angora is distinct from mohair, the hair of the Angora goat.
Advantages
- Very light, warm down makes airy, insulating knits.
- The halo gives a soft, blurred surface prized in accessories.
- Small amounts in a blend add softness and warmth without much weight.
- Natural whites and colors are available from different breeds.
Drawbacks
- Loose fibers shed onto skin and other clothing.
- The fabric mats and felts under friction and moisture.
- Harvest welfare is hard to verify, especially where plucking is used.
- Pure angora yarn lacks cohesion and strength without a carrier fiber.
- Moth larvae attack it like other keratin fibers.
Worth knowing
- After a 2013 undercover investigation of Chinese angora farms, dozens of international retailers suspended or dropped angora products.
- No laboratory test can show whether angora fiber was sheared, combed or plucked, so harvest claims rest on documentation.
Types, grades and fabrics
Types and grades
Angora is graded by fiber length, cleanliness and the proportion of coarse bristle (guard) fibers rather than by a micron standard. Fleece is dominated by fine down with a minority of stiffer bristles, and breeders distinguish fine-wool and coarse-wool lines. Lots are sorted by staple length, with matted or felted fiber and short second cuts downgraded. Harvest method creates distinct fiber: sheared fiber has cut ends, while plucked or combed fiber is loosened hair removed at the end of a growth cycle. Most commercial angora is blended; pure angora yarn is uncommon because the short, slippery fiber has little cohesion. China is widely reported as the dominant producer, alongside small craft breeders elsewhere.
Fabrics and products
Angora appears mainly in blended knitting yarns with wool, nylon or silk, for sweaters, hats, gloves, scarves and baby items, where it adds a soft halo and warmth for weight. Higher angora percentages give more halo and more shedding; lower percentages act as a surface accent. Woven angora is rare and usually a blend for soft coatings or scarves. Hand spinners buy raw angora and angora-wool blend rovings from small breeders.
Buying and care
How to judge quality
Look for a long, even halo and a soft, dry, fluffy hand; heavy shedding at first touch suggests short fiber or a loose, lightly twisted yarn. Matted patches or gritty specks indicate poor sorting. Check the fiber percentage, since 'angora blend' can contain a small share, and confirm that 'angora' refers to rabbit hair; under EU rules the name is reserved for angora rabbit hair, and US labels should say angora rabbit hair or fur fiber. Harvest claims such as 'shorn only' or 'no plucking' cannot be tested in the fiber, so ask for farm documentation or a certification scope. Many large retailers stopped selling angora after 2013, so provenance questions are routine.
Care in detail
Follow the label. Hand wash briefly in cool water with a wool detergent free of enzymes and bleach, without rubbing, since angora mats quickly. Press water out, roll in a towel and dry flat; never tumble dry. Fluff the halo by hand when dry. Avoid pressing; if needed, steam lightly from a distance at a low setting (the one-dot or two-dot setting the label allows). Wear angora over smooth layers, remove lint with a soft brush or tape rather than a pill shaver, and store folded in a sealed bag to limit shedding and protect it from moth larvae.
Care at a glance
Limit rubbing and follow the care label. Store folded; use gentle handling to preserve the surface.
Environmental and social footprint
Angora's environmental footprint per kilogram is poorly documented, and no peer-reviewed life cycle assessment could be verified; the main public issue is animal welfare. In 2013 an undercover video from PETA Asia showed rabbits on Chinese farms having hair ripped out, and a wave of retailers, including H&M, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, ASOS, Topshop and Marks and Spencer, suspended or ended angora sales. PETA states that about 90% of world angora comes from China, a figure that could not be confirmed independently. Housing, harvest frequency and handling all matter. Because fiber cannot reveal how it was harvested, buyers must rely on farm-level documentation. Small-scale breeders who shear or comb and sell directly offer more traceable, though small, supply.
Tradeoffs
Harvesting method and animal welfare are central. A country label does not establish humane handling.
A useful question to ask: Can the brand substantiate the farm conditions and collection method?
Science
Data sheet
| Property | Value | Conditions | Source |
|---|---|---|---|
| Comfort factor | about 97.5 (range 93.3 to 99.8) % | share of fibers at or below 30 microns, 60 French Angora rabbits, OFDA | [1] |
| Medullated fibers | about 0.1 to 7.3 % | OFDA estimate, same study | [1] |
| Fiber curvature | about 40.1 degrees/mm | OFDA mean, same study | [1] |
Protein-based natural material
Most hair is keratin; silk is a different protein-fiber system.
Structure and chemistry
The Angora rabbit is double-coated: fine down fibers dominate numerically, with a minority of coarse bristle fibers, and breeders distinguish fine- and coarse-wool lines that differ in follicle density and fiber diameter. The fibers are keratin, and a ladder-like medulla is a classic microscopic feature of rabbit hair. In an optical analysis of 349 French Angora fleece samples, the mean comfort factor, the share of fibers at or below 30 microns, was 97.5%, and the measured medullated share was low at 0.1 to 7.3%, but the authors noted the instrument was not adapted to Angora medullas and needed special calibration. Fiber diameter increased with age.
From source to yarn
Angora is harvested several times a year by shearing, combing or plucking. Plucking removes hair loosened at the end of a growth cycle; in Wan strain rabbits, skin sampled after plucking showed follicles in telogen in the first week and in anagen from the fourth to the twenty-fourth week. Harvested fiber is sorted by length and bristle content, and because it is short, slippery and low in cohesion it is usually blended with other fibers such as wool before spinning. Nutrition matters: in one trial, methionine added to a low-protein diet restored wool yield that the low-protein diet had reduced.
Performance in use
Angora is very light and warm for its weight, and its slippery, low-friction surface lets fiber ends migrate out of the yarn, producing the characteristic halo but also shedding; blending reduces shedding while diluting the halo. It shares the hygroscopic, self-extinguishing behavior of keratin and dyes with acid dyes, though depth of shade can differ from wool in blends. Fabrics mat and felt under friction and moisture, so rubbing zones wear quickly. It is susceptible to clothes moth and carpet beetle larvae.
How it is identified
Burn tests (indicative only, and to be done with care) show ordinary keratin behavior. Under the microscope, rabbit hair shows a wide, ladder-like medulla, particularly in coarser fibers, together with fine diameters, which distinguishes it from sheep wool and goat fibers. MALDI-TOF peptide profiling has separated angora from cashmere, wool, mohair, yak, camel and alpaca, including dyed samples and 50% blends. No laboratory test reveals whether fiber was sheared, combed or plucked, so harvest claims depend on documentation.
History
Timeline
- 2007An OFDA study of 349 fleece samples from French Angora rabbits characterized fineness, comfort factor and medullation. [1]
- 2011Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011 listed angora in Annex I as a fiber name reserved for Angora rabbit hair. [4]
- 2013After a PETA Asia video of hair being ripped from rabbits on Chinese farms, many retailers suspended or ended angora sales. [3]
- 2023A homozygous missense mutation in the FGF5 gene was associated with the long-hair trait in all tested Angora rabbits. [2]
Angora rabbits developed a place in specialist animal-fiber husbandry and later commercial knitwear. Their fine, fluffy hair is often blended to create a visible halo. Collection and welfare practices require their own evidence.
The deeper record
Angora rabbits have long been kept as specialist fiber animals, and veterinary literature from 1948 already discussed the effect of shearing Angora rabbits in bad weather on body temperature and health. Their breeding differs from sheep: a review of fiber genetics noted that several autosomal recessive genes govern rabbit coat traits, and that selecting double-coated Angoras on the single, easily measured trait of total fleece weight has also improved fleece quality. Recent Chinese programs apply genomic selection with imputed genome-wide markers and study follicle genes such as KRT17 and Wnt10b, while harvest method has become the central welfare and sourcing question for buyers.
Labeling and law
Angora rabbit hair is not a wool fiber under the US Wool Products Labeling Act. Under 16 CFR 303.6, the animal's name may be used with hair, fiber or blend when the fiber is 5% or more, and FTC guidance gives Angora Rabbit Hair as an acceptable disclosure; otherwise the term fur fiber may be used. In the EU, Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011 reserves angora for angora rabbit hair, while other rabbit hair falls in the general animal hair category. Claims such as shorn only or no plucking are marketing representations that need supply-chain evidence.
This describes what rules and standards cover. It is not legal advice; jurisdiction, product form and current rule text control.
Frequently asked
Is angora from goats or rabbits?
Angora fiber comes from Angora rabbits. The Angora goat produces mohair. Both names come from Ankara, which causes confusion, but EU labeling reserves 'angora' for rabbit hair, and US labels should identify it as angora rabbit hair or fur fiber.
Why does angora shed so much?
Angora fibers are short, fine and slippery, with low surface friction, so their ends work out of the yarn during wear. That creates the halo but also the shedding. Blending with wool or nylon and a firmer twist reduce shedding, while pure or high-angora yarns shed the most.
How can I buy angora ethically?
Ask who raised the rabbits, how they were housed and how often and by what method the fiber was harvested, and ask for farm documentation. The fiber itself cannot show whether it was shorn, combed or plucked. Small breeders who sell directly are easier to verify than anonymous blended supply.
Sources
- Food and Agriculture Organization: Harvesting of textile animal fibres
- BMC Genomics: A homozygous missense mutation in the fibroblast growth factor 5 gene is associated with the long-hair trait in Angora rabbits (2023)
- Journal of Animal Science: Characteristics of Angora rabbit fiber using optical fiber diameter analyzer (2007)
- Scientific Reports: Analysis of histological and microRNA profiles changes in rabbit skin development (2020)
- Animal: Genetics of fibre production and fleece characteristics in small ruminants, Angora rabbit and South American camelids (2010)
- Federal Trade Commission: Threading Your Way Through the Labeling Requirements Under the Textile and Wool Acts
- Business of Fashion: How PETA won the debate on angora and what it means for fashion
- CBS News: Global brands ban angora wool after PETA investigation
- PETA: The angora industry (advocacy source for the production share claim)
- GINETEX: Care symbols (ISO 3758 care labelling system)
- legislation.gov.uk: Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011, Annex I
Cite this page
Chaos. (2026). Angora. In Fibers of Earth: An independent textile atlas. https://www.hendrickresearch.com/fibers/materials/angora/